Thoughts at home - life is short so live it !!

I didn't think we would post again now we are home but of course there are always thoughts after the fact.

So at the tail end of our trip when we got back to Havana, I (GT) developed a rash on my lower left ankle. Of course, self diagnosis confirms its an insect bite of some sort. Most probably a spider bite. Common yes ?

However, over the coming days my ankle, leg and foot became extremely painful, swollen , red and very very hot. Infection right? We are thinking these Cuban spiders have some bite to them. Mr Tanti suggests to Mrs Tanti perhaps a trip to the doctor is in order after all the best are in this country. "No, no I'll be fine and I'll wait till we get home". This conversation occurred on the  20th March. Over the following days my leg got worse and by LA I was totally out of it. "No, no I'll wait till we are home, its not long now" as Gina limps along in pain.

So forward 1 week now at home and straight to the doctors for GT. Yeah, so if you have heard of Cellulitis that's where we are at!!!!!!!  Severe bacterial infection of the skin and if not treated can be fatal. Treatment - hospital admission for antibiotics by IV - immediately.

So tell us Mrs Tanti
Q:  How do you feel now ?
A: Well, clearly I'm an idiot and should have listened to the voice of reason. Sorry Mr Tanti x

Q: What would you do differently if this was to happen again?
A: Listen to Mr Tanti , see a doctor because things are not always what they seem.

Q: Are you on treatment now ?
A: Listen to Mr Tanti, oops sorry ......aah yes heavy dose of antibiotics with a follow up visit to the doc if pain persists for a second dose.

Q: How did you get this ?
A: Very rare and bloody unlucky and very thankful to my body for putting up a good fight and listen to Mr Tanti!

Q: What did you learn from this?
A: Listen to Mr Tanti, life is short & can easily go off track so live it !!!


Seriously, I was in a daze yesterday processing this but I'm good today. Yet another of life's challenges that come my way. Can't believe my luck or lack of???

Life is short so live it !

Day 20 - 21 - Havana History

Day 20-21 Saturday 19^th Sunday 20^th March          Living History

Back to Havana after a 1.5 hour flight and we make our way back to Casa Nilda in the hope she has a room available. Luck on our side she does and greets us like part of the family. Nilda actually reminds me of my grandmother which I think makes the experience nicer, on top of the fact that her apartment is quite nice.

Dark clouds an omen?

There's a-change a-comin'

The Malecon in lockdown to traffic

Hotel Nacional Bar

Havana Veja standing proud

We look forward to experiencing a buzz in Havana given B’rak’s impending, history making visit. A trip to Hotel Nacional is a step back in time. Built in 1930, it has survived 2 revolutions, been a Mafia centrepiece in Cuba, and hosted all manner of celebrity, Mafioso and world leader. Walking through the place it harks back to its history with photos and artefacts dedicated to its colourful past. It is also alive with Americans everywhere including what we suspect to be US secret service men. Something about the buzz cuts, standard issue backpacks and clothes gives them away. Also many TV crews doing random filming around the hotel grounds gives it an active vibe. We made a day of it at the hotel, drinking “cocktail de Mafioso”, a variation of the mojito, some mojitos, lunch and just generally soaking up the atmosphere.

Saturday night was spent at the Fabrica de Arte Cubano, a seriously cool warehouse space over multiple levels hosting bands, movies, art shows, multiple bars etc, all at the same time. Tourists and Cubans alike mingle. This space has a European vibe about it and screams new Cuba, it could be planted anywhere in Europe and not be out of place. www.fac.cu is a definite must see in Havana.

Sunday, our last day and back for a bit of reminiscing in Havana Veja. Also, B’rak and his posse are visiting here at the Plaza de la Catedral  later in the day, so there is plenty of last minute preening of the city, news crews taking strategic position, and very obvious security. Havana Veja goes into lock down at 4pm with no one allowed in our out. We took position in a bar one block away from the cathedral and were resigned to watching history on TV.

Here’s a musing; it started raining heavily today in Havana, the first rain in many weeks. Gina’s theory is that a dark cloud is coming over Cuba as American influence approaches. Nilda’s view was that the rain was washing away the negativity of US v Cuban relations.

What'll it be?

Coctail de Mafioso

 

Grand dining room

What would Che think?

We watched, along with many at the bar, B’rak touch down, and then make his way to the Cathedral, excited in the knowledge that history was happening 300 metres away from us. It was both exciting and eerie seeing Havana in lockdown, streets empty to the buzz of traffic and people, the air cleaner, and the like. The downside to us was that it was an effort trying to find a taxi, as we had to walk a fair way out of the city that night, in the rain, to find a taxi!

And so ends Ginz Cuban Cavorting. We feel privileged we are finally able to visit, and do so at a time when history is being made. OK, so we miss the Rolling Stones playing their free show on the 25^th, but small price to pay for being able to visit this country. So many positive experiences and memories, and seriously, the Cuban people are wonderful.

Hasta l'avista Cuba!

Next steps, transit to Mexico as we head to LA for the trip back home. We are ready to return and are excited to see Rexy! 

Day 18 - 19 Santigo takes hold

Day 18-19  Thursday 17^th – Friday 18^th March  Santiago de Cuba

Well insult was added to injury. After enduring the bus ride yesterday all hell broke loose in Santiago both figurative and literal! I arrived with the worst case of gastro I can recall in my adult life, and to add further insult to injury, the toilet

won’t flush!

   We stay in a Casa that hasn’t left a positive impression on us other than the ladies have a beautiful puppy that kept us entertained, and that it is only a 5 minute walk from the city centre.  

First observations are that the centre has a long mall with many specialty shops including a Reebok and Nike store, go figure! To us it seems a more affluent city but we are later to learn that much of the redevelopment is as a consequence of the damage left by Cyclone Sandy a few years ago.

GT 's ride to the airport 

I had to leave Gina to cavort on her own today due to my fragile state. We decided after the bus trip that we were going to fly the next legs of the trip and that with limited flights, limited seats, and Cuban indifference, pushing to Baracoa was a bit of a time risk. After another lengthy effort, Gina made her way to the Santiago Airport to “try” to book flights. After some toing and froing it was decided that we could get seats on a flight to Havana, thus cutting short this leg of the trip. Nothing happens easily here!

casa - corridor with our room to left

 We ventured close to home and took refuge at the Hotel Granda, an opulent, restored Spanish Colonial Hotel built in the 1930’s and overlooking the Cespedes Park.

        

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domino's a fav pastime for the locals

 

      

One serious afro and very common here too

 

Some of the highlights here in our cavorting where a visit to the Bacardi Museum, built by the Bacardi Rum Barons, though they fled Cuba in the 1960’s. The Moncada Barracks, the scene of Fidel’s first attack against Battista’s Army in 1953 was really interesting with a museum dedicated to the attack and now converted to a primary school.   

That said a lot of soldiers died and of Fidel’s guerrilla army, 63 were tortured and killed. 

Next leg of the trip, back to Havana

Day 17 - Are we there yet ?

Day 17 Wednesday 16^th March   Are we there yet ? – Trinidad to Santiago de Cuba

Holy Frjioles Batman !!!!!

If you ever get to Cuba, we highly recommend DO NOT TAKE THE BUS to Santiago de Cuba!

We persevered 12 freaking hours of unrelenting travel. No one gives you updates, no pee stops, no food stops and no drink stops. What a dragggggg!

Such a high yesterday and a huge reality check today. So with that and nothing interesting during the travel the mind starts to wonder, so here we go with a few musings from our collective gatherings:

• ·         Word is that up to US$1Billion (not a misprint) flows into Cuba from the US, particularly Miami, in the form of cash, and goods. This contributes somewhat to the social “imbalances”
• ·         US airlines are currently bidding for routes into Cuba with up to 100 new flights per week scheduled. These guys can barely cope with the tourism they have, good times ahead!
• ·         Yokavi, our host in Trinidad is a Dentist and earns $50CUC per month. By comparison we paid $30CUC per night to stay in her Casa. Is there an impending brain-drain coming?
• ·         Yokavi’s husband is an Eye Surgeon who earns $60CUC per month in Trinidad. He is currently working in Cuba’s International Mission to Angola with many other surgeons and professionals. It is a 2 year commitment with a 4 week break in between. He earns $1,000CUC per month, paid by the Angolan Government. It obviously comes with personal sacrifice.
• ·         When a Cuban asks where we are from, upon hearing our response the always reply with “Ah Kangaroo!” Seriously, is this all we are known for?
• ·         There is no obvious race distinction in Cuba. Given that darker Cubans all came from Africa as slaves (like the US) they all consider themselves Cubans.
• ·         Speaking with other tourists, local taxi travel is blowing holes in all our budgets. We are all staggered with the prices of taxi fares which can cost $20CUC for a short ride across the city. Keep it in perspective relative to a month’s earnings!

Day 16 - It's my Birthday Trinidad

Day 16 Tuesday 15^th March          It’s my Birthday Trinidad

This birthday will last the month long. Holidaying in an incredible part of the world, my Cullen Growler hanging up at home, 24/7 with the best man ever and everything is grand.

   
 Yokavi, our host presents me with a glorious Cuban birthday cake at breakfast. Totally unexpected and again it demonstrates what great people the Cuban’s are. This luxury item needless to say is such a special moment. With tears of joy and gratitude, we settle into eating the cake. Guava filling and not quite sure what the external covering is, whipped egg whites is my guess.

For a non-swimmer, the beach is one of my favourite pass times so we catch a taxi to Playa Ancon. It’s about 10km out of town and the perfect place to lounge in the sun on ones birthday. Crystal water, white sand and minimal human interruption, making one unspoilt beach.

Late afternoon , we return to the casa to shower and get ready for the evening. We chose an original Colonial Restaurant for dinner as a treat which resembles a museum of fine dining. Everything is so beautiful and delicately laid, the table set with the finest crystal, crockery, silver, antiques and sculptures taking you back in time. The musicians are supported by a lovely young couple who randomly select guests to join them on the dance floor. Andrew managed to score 3 -4 dances with the lovely signorina much to his embarrassment.

One of the funny things during our 4 course meal was no matter what you ordered we both got the same thing. The couple on the table next to us experienced the same thing. For our main, we choose different lobster but got the same thing with the exception of the condiment sauce. So okay half different. Delicious I may add but still hilarious.

Andrew’s move on the dance floor were a highlight as no other sucker was getting up.

 I’m not sure the signorina went home with any toes , but it made the night. It’s customary that one of the band members spruiks their CD or collects tips for the band. On this occasion, Andrew tips them $5 to sing happy birthday for me but fortunately something was lost in the translation. Poor Andrew, very happy Gina J!

Day 15 - Trinidad Discovery

Day 15 Monday 14^th March          Trinidad Discovery

 Trinidad is one of the oldest examples of Spanish Colonial architecture in the world, let alone Cuba and let’s just say it hasn’t aged gracefully. This once grand old city bears the scars of decades of disrepair and decay although there is effort to try and restore key buildings to former glory.

Santa Ana in much need of repair

The roads are predominantly cobble stone and an effort on the feet. The narrow streets mix tourist and local pedestrian traffic, tour buses, old and new taxis, motorbikes, and horse drawn and donkey powered carts. 

   

Throw into the mix stray dogs at various stages of death, cats, you get the picture. Actually, you do need to watch where you step!

It’s a tough city which demands cavorting constantly and not just because of the mild heat (28-30 degrees) its amaze of streets, even for the best of navigators is a struggle. Nothing makes sense!

By chance, supposedly heading home we pass what seemed to be an elderly locals club. Live Cuban band, door bitch and cover charge. Okay, let’s take our chances, get in only to perhaps get kicked out. Not a foreigner in sight but a hell of a lot of partying going on and all eyes on us. 

A little frosty at first, but within minutes we have chairs and a table with the locals encouraging us to drink up and party too. Did I mention its only 4pm in the afternoon? Numerous bottles of rum are being consumed (by the locals) and everyone up to Salsa. If only the old folks at home could bother with this perhaps the hip replacements would be down in numbers. These Cubans have the groove and they just don’t stop. At one stage, an older lady had me (Gina) jumping to the music and when I would slow down, short of breath, she would whack me with her fan to keep me moving. Karma’s a bitch, because was I only saying the Salsa in Cuba is a fallacy?   

Our oasis among the real world

Two hours later, basting in our perspiration, calf muscles aching, kissing everyone goodbye we break free and head home with smiles from ear to ear. You just can’t buy that much fun for $6 total including cover charge, drinks, the lot.  

 

RHS neighbours

LHS neighbour

       

                                                        

Trinidad Colonial cocktail at sunset

Day 10 - 14 Cayo Largo , Varadero, Trinidad, Plans Change

Day 10 Wednesday 9^th March        Cayo Largo (Key Largo) – R &R

Today was about relaxation on Cayo Largo at the resort Ole Playa Blanca. What is interesting about the island of Cayo Largo is that there are 3 flights per week directly from Italy and a number more from Canada. Those we thought were French are French Canadian, and so many of the resort staff speaks fluent Italian. Made our lives simpler for a couple of days! In fact there is one resort that caters exclusively for Italians, let the pasta run free……hmmm Pasta!

reception overlooking pool area 

Spacious room but could do with an update !

Otherwise there isn’t much more to say. How do we describe this place without the repetition of any other Caribbean Island? It’s remote, hot, crystal waters, white sand and glorious. Enough said as a picture paints a thousand words.............

Day 11 Thursday 10^{th March}        Cayo Largo (Key  Largo) Donde Este Delfino?

One of the joys of life is the opportunity and experience that await from the most obscure beginnings, remember the flying fox in Vinales Valley? If we are open to them, they can push out of our comfort zone, but be all the better for it. Today I had the opportunity of a lifetime.

As many know I have a deep seeded fear of water, definitely out of my comfort zone if my feet don’t touch the bottom. So with great trepidation and excitement, I went swimming with dolphins at Playa Sirena at Cayo Largo. After a short boat ride I vested up and met the dolphin trainer who introduced us to his beautiful friends.
I was nervous, but thought that for the allocated 20 minutes I’d just get to pat them in the shallows. Not so! We had to swim out to the deeper water so the dolphins had room to manoeuvre and perform.  
Too late to chicken out now, so in my trusty buoyancy vest I paddled out into the dolphin domain. These are mighty strong yet gentle creatures which both scared and comforted me. With the trainers’ whistle commands and hand signals the dolphins rolled over, sang, clapped and generally clowned around us. No doubt part of the show but they were gentle enough to come up and give me a kiss on the cheek.

These were such beautiful moments that I just had to hug one of them! Surprisingly they truly connected with the caressing and lingered around like a dog having its belly rubbed. Magic ! They feel so smooth and rubbery, so different to what I’d imagined.

They finished by towing me back into the shallows, just an amazing sensation and one I am so proud to have taken the plunge (pun intended). Funnily, had this been a year ago I wouldn’t have dared attempted it. Had it not been for the recent outings at Eildon and Bonnie Doon, and jumping off the back of the boat, I may have never had the confidence.

That was the massive highlight of the day; otherwise Andrew forgot to bring his wallet so we didn’t have enough money for lunch. Fortunately beer is cheap so we had a liquid lunch instead; cavorting in Cuba is such hard work!

Day 12 Friday 11^th March     Cayo Largo (Key  Largo) – Havana -Varadero , Change of Plans

The great thing about not booking head is remaining fluid in our travel plans. Yesterday we were set for Trinidad. Today we are going to Varadero. Why I hear you ask? The one and only Viazul bus is totally booked for Trinidad and by the time we get back to Havana from Cayo Largo we miss that connecting bus for Trinidad. So change of plans. Oh and we only get this information 7pm the night before we leave Cayo Largo. Gotta love the Cubans! It’s just another example of how this country is not geared to receive the tourist trade.

  

stairwell to our room!

Okay, so we arrive at Varadero at 9.30 pm, no accommodation and no plans. Gina gets her best negotiating skills on and rounds up the taxi drivers. “Ola, who speaks English”, they all dob in their mate. “Okay, who has a Casa for us ?” How many nights, how much blah, blah blah. It all falls into place. We are driven to the Casa, expecting something a little shabby at this hour and a taxi referral only means his mate will benefit, but we hit gold, two blocks from the famous Varadero Beach, the largest beach in Cuba. Double bonus, a host who also speaks English and a totally self-contained part of the Casa with our own bathroom and A/C; Happy Days!! Once settled in we set off for a quick bite and then hit the sack…. Bueno noches

Day 13 Saturday 12^th March       Varadero  - Salsa on the dance floor!

Varadero was going to be out last stop if time allowed at the end of the trip. It’s most famous for the longest stretch of white sand beach, in fact it is among the cleanest beaches in the world; it is Cuba’s  longest beach and the country’s main resort area.

White sand beach is blindly beautiful

Similar to Cancun in Mexico it has a hotel strip making it our Bali to the Canadians. We’re only here for a full day (2 nights) so tried and make it count. We set off along the main drag, lots of 50’s America cruising and plying its trade along with horse drawn carriages. The horses we have seen pulling the carts and buggies are all so emaciated, quite sad really, yet so many tourists seem excited to be hauled along by them.  It’s quite warm in Varadero and it isn’t summer yet.

A general observation, when Dragon sang “April Sun in Cuba” back in the late 70’s Marc Hunter and Co did not have an appreciation for how hot it actually gets!, but we digress.

Don"t judge!  It's hot & 11am 

Nothing too exciting to see, it is a resort town, so we decided the hop-on, hop-off bus to be the way to take it all in. Alas, not to be the case, it simply cruised the resort area so not much more to add. It was beer o’clock a few times in the day as cavorting in the heat is thirsty work. The highlight was our casual stroll along the gorgeous beach and as good as the guide books say.

We had a chat to our host Yuliet who encouraged us to hit the down and go dancing. We look at each other and think yeah sure a hot spot putting it on for the tourists. Calle 62 the place to be she assures us and much to our surprise it actually was a great night. Playing live a Cuban band, street blocked off to accommodate an extended dance floor and lots of Rum.  Yes some travellers but heaps of locals too. Some serious cavorting was done and we fell into bed at 1.30am. This was a problem to the extent we had a 4.30am wake up call to depart Varadero, cavorting doesn’t seem like fun at this hour.

Salsa party in Calle 62

Day 14 Sunday 13^th March           Hello Trinidad

A random musing here. When Gina turned 40, on that same day she was a placard bearer, the person who led the Trinidad & Tobago team onto the MCG at the opening of the Melbourne Commonwealth Games in 2006. Fast forward to Gina’s impending 50^th birthday and she will be celebrating it in Trinidad, Cuba!

We caught the Viazul bus from Varadero to Trinidad via Cienfuegos. All up it was to be a 5 hour trip but what excitement awaited us? We arrived at the depot in Cienfuegos to have the driver announce a 20 minute break, the bus was broken! We had to wait for the mechanic. Well 20 minutes was optimistic as we all know.  When dealing with tradies best guess and reality can exist in a parallel universe. It was a 90 minute break and as it turned out was not too bad considering the bus shat a water pump (technical speak). On the road again, the rest of the trip was uneventful.

You've got to be kidding ???

We arrived at Trinidad late and were met by a man who referred us to our next mode of transport to the Casa Hostal Los Faroles. Transport being a 3 seat tricycle with luggage space! Holy Mojitos Batman!, we looked at each other thinking you’ve got to be joking! 40KG of luggage and a little more for Gina and I, this bloke is gunna cark it!

Our rider is the super skinny bloke at the back of the bike

 So we load up and the man pedals along the paved colonial streets as he tries to guide our “tour”. How does he speak, pedal and draw breath? We got closer and saw the he was readying himself for a hill, and we both jumped off, there was no way we were going to let him cycle us anymore.
We arrived at our Casa, he was dripping sweat and no doubt glad the trip was over.

Add caption

Pretty in pink polyester

We were greeted by our host Yokavi, shown around the house and left to our devices. Let’s say this is the best house in one of the worst streets. The house itself is a bit of an oasis in the area but as photos will show, over the back fence is a huge pig in a small pen, chooks, roosters, and various odours of unidentifiable origin.

Anyway, we are settled here for 3 nights so will make the most of it and Trinidad.